Most craftsmen "sneak up" on the curve they want to form. The rear roller is adjusted for how much curve is imprinted into the material. The two front rollers are adjusted to "grip" the material (remember, this Stainless is a thicker gauge than the old Bally material). The "Good" side of the material faces the player of course, so remember to put the correct side up when rolling the material. You can grind the Burr off with a Die Grinder, a Dremel with a small conical stone, a slightly larger drill bit, or even a de-burring tool.ĭo this while you still have the protective film in place, trust me.īack at the Slip Roll, we now can form our curve. When you drill in soft metals, a collar of sharp material forms around the hole, called a Burr. Once your holes are all drilled, de-burr your holes. Sharpen the bit, or just put a new one in. If your drill bit does not instantly bore through, don't just let the bit spin and heat up. Sharp bits make chips, dull bits make dust. How do we avoid Work Hardening? Use a drop of oil on the bit (even cooking oil is fine for our purposes here), AND use a SHARP drill bit. The heated area will become very hard and you won't be able to drill it with a regular drill bit. Most Stainless is super soft metal, but if it gets hot, you will experience a phenomenon called Work Hardening. Should the metal bind up, it will spin and cut you to the bone, or fly up in your face, or both. Do not even think about drilling while just holding the Stainless down with your hand. The drill bit needed here was a #43, so it is too small for handheld drilling with a drill gun, because the bit will likely flex and break. Measuring along a curve would further complicate matters in that I would have to use a flexible rule.yeash, I'd rather do it the easy way.ĭrill out all your holes on a drill press. Having a template means that by using a transfer punch, all the holes will be exactly where they should be, no measuring required. I answer that I don't want to measure all those holes. Someone is going to ask "Why not just measure the old one and make new ones from those measurements?" Now I can use this as a template to make a bunch of of new horseshoes: You can see the wear spot from the Ring/Rod. When the rollers get all scratched up, you have to put them into a lathe, and cut them down to fresh metal. You also want to be careful not to scratch up the rollers, because they will keep "imprinting" those scratches into highly polished metal. I cleaned all the old wax off the horseshoe, so the wax would not contaminate the rollers. Now, one of the best kept "secrets of the slip roll" is that if you put a curved piece of metal into the slip backwards, it will make it completely flat again. Ī slip roll draws metal through 3 rollers leaving a curve in a piece of metal's memory. You general use a rivet washer on the back side when riveting plastics.otherwise the plastic can easily be broken.A gentle bend is easy to make in a ball guide, just by drawing it over the edge of a workbench.īut the SMB horseshoe is a severe 180 degree bend.įor this job, we need a tool called a Slip Roll. I keep various lengths in stock depending on the total thickness of what I will be riveting. For Pinball, all the rivets have a head diameter of 7/32" and a shaft of 1/8". The real trick is knowing just what size (mostly length) rivet to use. The head can be supported on a piece of hardwood, or in my case I usually use one of the jaws on my vise. Item # was HT-174 for $25 see linkīasically with this tool you pound the back side of the rivet until it is properly formed. ![]() In those cases I use a hand die that is about 4 inches long. Sometimes the rivet is situated such that you just cannot get to it with a press. ![]() I do a lot of riveting on the ramps that I make. These rivets are generally used with a rivet press. The correct rivets are actually Semi-Tubular steel rivets.
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